Controller Trigger Test
Pull each trigger all the way 3 times, let go, and see whether it still reaches full travel.
Getting ready…
How It Works
An analog trigger reports how far it is pulled, from 0.00 at rest to 1.00 at a full pull. The bars show both triggers live, and the dark line marks the farthest each has reached.
The test counts 3 full pulls on each trigger and keeps the farthest point of every pull. Then it records both triggers for 2 seconds with your fingers off, to see where each one settles and how much it jitters on its own.
Triggers on a Switch Pro Controller or Joy-Con are digital: on or off, with nothing in between. The test recognizes them and checks only that they let go.
Nothing is installed and nothing leaves your device. The whole test runs inside this page.
Interpreting Your Result
A trigger that reaches 0.99 or more is healthy. Between 0.90 and 0.99 it is starting to wear. Below 0.90 you are losing acceleration in racing games and fire rate in shooters.
A trigger that stops at the same point on every pull is usually a trigger stop, not a fault. Xbox Elite, DualSense Edge, Scuf and several third-party controllers have switches that shorten trigger travel for faster firing. Switch them off and test again.
A trigger resting above 0.03 after you let go is not returning fully. Dirt under the trigger or a stretched return spring is the usual cause, and compressed air around the hinge often helps.
Jitter above 0.03 with nobody touching it points to a worn sensor. PlayStation triggers use a potentiometer that wears with use. Xbox One and Series triggers, like Hall effect replacements, sense position with a magnet, so jitter there usually means a loose magnet or a board fault.
Losing a little travel? Many games let you set a trigger deadzone or sensitivity curve, which can make up for a trigger that no longer reaches 1.00.
Checking the rest of the controller? The gamepad tester shows every button and stick live, and the stick drift test measures each analog stick at rest. Xbox trigger motors are checked by the controller vibration test.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my trigger not pull all the way?
Either the trigger is worn or trigger stops are switched on. Worn sensors lose range gradually and usually vary a little from pull to pull. Trigger stops cut every pull off at the same point. Switch any stops off and test again; if the trigger still falls short, the sensor or lever is worn.
Do PS5 adaptive triggers affect this test?
No. The DualSense’s adaptive triggers change how stiff the trigger feels in supported games, not how far it reports. A trigger that feels stiff should still read from 0.00 to 1.00 here.
Can a worn controller trigger be repaired?
Often. A trigger that sticks or does not return is usually dirt or a tired spring, which cleaning or a new spring fixes. A trigger that falls short or jitters has a worn sensor: replacement trigger modules exist for most popular controllers, including Hall effect ones that do not wear the same way.
Why does my Switch controller show digital triggers?
ZL and ZR on the Switch Pro Controller and Joy-Con are buttons, not analog triggers: they are either pressed or not. The test detects this and checks only that each one presses and lets go cleanly.
What is a trigger deadzone?
It is the part of the pull a game ignores. Raising it hides a trigger that does not quite return to zero; lowering the outer limit lets a worn trigger that stops short still reach full effect. Some controllers also ignore the first few percent of travel in their own firmware.
My trigger works here but not in a game. Why?
If the bar moves smoothly from 0.00 to 1.00, the trigger is fine. Some games read a trigger as a button that fires only past a set point, and Steam Input can change that point or remap the trigger, so check both before replacing anything.